If you side the course of the Maremola stream towards the Colle del Melogno, a twisting ascent will take you to Tovo San Giacomo, a hill village surrounded by meadows, orchards and gardens. A stone’s throw from the sea you will discover a universe of green tranquillity, traversed by gently sloping paths reaching woods, medieval ruins and tiny rural churches. The enchantment of Liguria rules in this crossroads of natural, cultural (Tovo is renowned for tower clocks manufacture) and (oeno)gastronomic routes.ù
Travel back to the sea and let the Aurelia guide your journey to Loano, the centre of this ample bay – between the Finalese and the Albenganese – displaying the splendour of the Riviera delle Palme. Like Borgio and Pietra Ligure, Loano too shows the signs of a double identity, both historical and contemporary. Find the traces of its wealthy past in the old quarter, still protected by sections of the city walls, towers and monumental doors (highlights include the porta Pastorino, surmounted by a huge clock). The powerful Doria household built a number of solemn dwellings: visit the Palazzo Comunale (16th century, Alessi school) and the imposing Castello (transformed into a Renaissance palace during the 16th century), surrounded by vegetation and proudly dominating the homonymous hamlet. Evidence of its present - as a renowned seaside resort - are on exhibit everywhere: from the myriad of hotels and stabilimenti balneari, to the charm of the lungomare, rich in flowerbeds, mosaic floorings and fountain-sculptures by famous artists. The two souls of Loano coexist in harmony, the deep beach flanking a vertical world of carruggi, portals, friezes, churches and loggias. Foodies will discover a treasure chest plenty of botteghe, wineries and gourmet haunts: extra virgin olive oils, mouth watering savoury pies, basil pesto, pasta filled with numberless aromatic herbs, scenting white wines and – last but not least – a symphony of fish will be your gourmand reward.
Turn your back to the sea and continue your exploration, Loano is known for the touching beauty of its hills, announcing the atmospheres of the inner mountains. Enjoy the views from Verzi, a short distance from both the Pian delle Bosse rifugio and the peak of Monte Carmo (the trekker’s choice). Otherwise, drive along the relaxing corniche heading to Boissano, a kaleidoscope of pastel houses standing in the sunlight amidst the sparkling grey of olive trees. A short way after Boissano, not-accidental tourists will surely notice the diversion to the Toirano caves, a paradise of stalactites and stalagmites of utter speleological and archaeological relevance. Several findings confirm the prehistoric frequentation of the site, mostly in the Bàsua (witch) cave, open all year round.
Travel on, the asphalt ribbon will guide you past the remains of an ancient Certosa to Toirano, a splendid Mediterranean borgo embracing tiny piazzette, shady alleys and centuries-old passages. The village pleasantly smells of sea (just a few kilometres away) and olive trees, celebrated by an intriguing museum set among medieval and Renaissance palaces...